astridv: (Default)
astridv ([personal profile] astridv) wrote2012-11-27 07:15 pm

toprope question

(xposted from [community profile] disobey_gravity)
I have a question for the people with outdoor belaying experience. I have my eye set on this bridge. It's conveniently situated in the middle of nowhere, there's barely even foot traffic, and I figure it might be possible to use the railing for toprope belay. However it's a sandstone railing and I don't know if it's advisable to hang a rope directly around a stone structure or if the friction would damage it. So I'm wondering if there is some kind of gadget that you could fasten around the stone railing, with a metal ring or roll through which the rope would go. If there is, what's it called?
cofax7: climbing on an abbey wall  (Default)

[personal profile] cofax7 2012-11-27 11:30 pm (UTC)(link)
For that, you would use a sling, or more correctly, three. A sling is a loop of nylon webbing, sewn or woven in a loop, to which you clip multiple carabiners. At least one of which should be a locking biner.

Never put moving rope against anything but metal.

I suggest you google up some more information on toprope anchors
cofax7: climbing on an abbey wall  (Default)

[personal profile] cofax7 2012-11-28 02:50 pm (UTC)(link)
You use three to balance the load and because you always, always have a backup.

Separate Slings around three separate points on the bridge, with carabiners (at least one locking biner) at a length that keeps the rope from rubbing against the bridge, then the rope through the biners.

It will feel a lot more difficult than indoors: there's a lot more friction on the rope than indoors.

But I strongly encourage you to take an anchors class from your local climbing instructors: nobody should be setting anchors, even really simple ones, without training. If you don't have the basic principles down, people die.

Take a class!