I just found that Ashima Shiraishi video. She's going to rule the world someday. Apparently she's recently sent Chablanke (V11/V12). Aged 9.

*bows down in awe of her*

Re: the finger injury, I've found Dave MacLeod's cold therapy protocol pretty effective:

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2007/06/finger-injury-treatment-videocast.html

And in case you haven't seen it, here's some inspiration for the one-handed climbing (it's an amazing exercise, isn't it?):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03Cow7sn5w4